Home Edizioneed. 10 Bulgari – ‘Serpenti’ turns 75

Bulgari – ‘Serpenti’ turns 75

Written by Stefano Carazzali

Serpenti is not only one of the most iconic watches among all Bvlgari’s creations, but probably of the entire world of hands; a powerful symbol with deep roots in the history of the most ancient civilisations, desired by women in various eras, Serpenti has crossed the decades gaining popularity, becoming increasingly fascinating and becoming a true myth.. 

As a jewellery watch, Serpenti was introduced to the market in 1948, initially with a stylised shape, obtained thanks to the Tubogas technique. In the 1950s, it achieved a new, more realistic interpretation, while, from the 1960s onwards, the Maison introduced new shapes, and new appeal, thanks to the extensive use of precious stones and polychrome enamelling on the scales. Since then, Serpenti has been characterised by continuous evolution, in terms of shapes, materials, setting techniques and colours.

Serpenti was the ideal piece of jewellery for strong, powerful women with great charm such as Elizabeth Taylor, or Gina Lollobrigida, or even top model Amanda Wellsh, testimonial of the years 2016-2017.

In 2023, to celebrate 75 years since it first appeared in jewellery collections, the Maison is presenting two exceptional high jewellery timepieces, two dream creations.

The first is the Serpenti Misteriosi Dragone, inspired by the watch made by Bvlgari specifically for Liz Taylor in Joseph L. Mankiewicz’s film ‘Cleopatra’. The actress declared during filming that “surely, one of the greatest advantages of shooting Cleopatra in Rome was the delightful Bvlgari shop”, an indelible sign of the bond she had with the Maison.

The watch features a dragon’s head made entirely of white gold, set with drop-cut diamonds and emeralds, used for the eyes. Round brilliant-cut diamonds and emeralds, on the other hand, are the setting of the bracelet, also made of white gold. Acting on the snake’s tongue, the animal’s head opens up to reveal the Piccolissimo, the specially-made, hand-wound BVL 100 calibre that displays the hours and minutes. Piccolissimo, thanks to an ingenious system, can be rotated so that Serpenti can be worn on both arms.

The other breathtaking watch is the Serpenti Misteriosi Pallini, inspired by a 1995 creation. The Maison confirms, if ever there was a need, its skill with magnificent coloured gemstones, combining emeralds, diamonds and Paraiba tourmalines, set on a case and bracelet both in 18-carat white gold. While the head of the watch is adorned with round brilliant diamonds and two eyes in teardrop-cut emeralds, the sinuous coils wrap around the arm with elegant preciousness.

Serpenti Misteriosi Pallini represents the true union of the spectacular stones of the Roman Maison, with the excellence of Swiss watchmaking.

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